Chicken Liver Pâté the Very Easy, Very French Way

Pâté is a famous French food, but it’s hardly a delicacy: you can find affordable varieties anywhere in France.”

When I entertain, I usually ask guests ahead of time if there is anything they won’t eat. I always hear: “Liver!” But also, when I entertain, I often make my famous chicken liver pâté. The funny thing is, after a little encouragement, people will try it, and most of the time they love it. 

If you have never tried chicken liver anything, it tends to be much, much milder than the usually dreaded calf liver. I don’t even like beef liver (which is the same thing from a more mature animal). The liver filters blood, which is full of iron. It is the metallic taste of that iron that we generally do not like.

Pâté is a famous French food, but it’s hardly a delicacy: you can find affordable varieties anywhere in France. The word comes from the Old French “paste” for “pie of seasoned meat.” But it has its roots in ancient Roman and Greek traditions, where consuming minced, seasoned meats was a fashion, and one that Rome brought to the rest of Europe. In the Middle Ages, pâté evolved to incorporate less savory parts of the animal and became a preservation method using pastry (pâté en croûte) or clay pots (terrine). By the 1700s, it had developed into sophisticated French cuisine. 

But it’s not hard to make.

There are several great recipes for pâté, and many kinds, but the first one I want to share here is by far the easiest. It also contains two sticks of butter, so how awful could that be? Also, I use a food processor, but if you don’t have one, a blender will work if you blend it in two batches. Just combine before serving. This recipe makes about three cups.

Chicken Liver Pâté

Ingredients

1 lb. chicken livers, drained

2 sticks unsalted butter, cut into chunks

1 8-oz. jar or can sliced white or brown mushrooms, drained

1 1/2 tsp dry thyme

1 scallion, thinly sliced (both white and green parts)

1 tsp salt

1/2 cup red wine

1/4 cup of brandy or whisky

Procedure

1. Melt half the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add chicken livers and cook about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add thyme, mushrooms, scallion, salt, red wine, and brandy. Continue cooking for about 15 minutes or until you reduce the liquid by about half. This will fully cook the livers, but they will remain a little pink.

2. Transfer the hot mixture to the bowl of your food processor, and add the remaining butter. Blend the mixture until it is quite smooth (it will have the appearance of grainy pudding). Check for salt; you may want to add a little more. Transfer to a serving dish or dishes. I suggest multiple 1-cup ramekins so you can serve it as needed. Refrigerate until cool. The butter in the mixture will firm up as it gets cold. Cover with plastic wrap. These will last in the refrigerator for about five days, but they freeze well. 

3. Serve with small toast slices or crackers. Garnish with thin slices of green scallion. This is a great treat to have on standby, so you can stun any guests who happen to drop in. Just thaw on the counter before serving.

4. How about a vegetarian version? Follow the recipe above, but replace the liver with slivered almonds. Maybe add just a little more thyme.

Pâté de Campagne, or Country Pâté

There are other versions of pâté (did I mention liver mousse?), and this is one of my favorites. It still has chicken liver, but there’s also pork sausage, and it’s all cooked in a pan, like a meatloaf. This could be an appetizer for a larger crowd, served with a grainy mustard and small pickles like cornichons. Or it can be sliced for a light summer dinner along with a green salad and crusty bread. I have simplified the following recipe from the incomparable chef, Raymond Blanc, OBE.

Ingredients

1/2 lb. chicken livers, drained

1 1/2 lbs. chopped up pork shoulder or mild Italian sausage; the fattier, the better.

1 egg

1/4 cup heavy cream

2-3 tbsp breadcrumbs or 1 slice of white bread soaked in milk and torn up.

1/2 cup chopped onion sautéed in butter just until soft.

2-3 cloves minced garlic

2 tbsp brandy, cognac, or port wine

1-2 tsp salt

1 tsp ground pepper

1 tsp dried thyme or herbes de provence

1/2 tsp nutmeg

1/2 tsp ground allspice

Optional: 1/2 cup shelled pistachios, dried cherries, or peppercorns

Procedure

1. Mix the pork shoulder or sausage with the chicken livers, herbs, salt, pepper, spices, and brandy. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight.

2. Combine the marinated meat, sautéed onions, garlic, breadcrumbs or torn-up bread, egg, and cream, and any optional items. Mix by hand (oil them first) until well combined and slightly sticky. If you want to check the taste before moving on, fry a small spoonful of it and adjust as needed.

3. Grease a standard loaf pan (9 by 5 inches) and pack the meat mixture into it, pressing down to avoid air bubbles. Some people will line the pan with bacon strips and fold the excess over it. Top with a few bay leaves.

4. Cover the pan tightly with foil and place it in a larger roasting pan filled halfway up the sides with boiling water.

5. Bake for 1 1/2 or 2 hours at 350, until the internal temperature reaches 165.

6. Remove from the oven and let cool. Place a weight (like soup cans from the pantry) on top of the pâté to compress it. Refrigerate for at least 24 hours or up to 3 days before serving.

7. Unmold, slice, and serve with cornichons, Dijon mustard, crusty bread, and some nice wine with some nice people. If you make stuff like this, nice people will come to you.

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